Looks very good. I was thinking about doing something like this 🤔Initially, I had lugs as well and it works fine. However, installing a small, sealed connector on the outside of the vehicle made it so much easier -- a quick plug-in or plug-out with no worries of shorting anything out. Here's how it looks without the cord:
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Northernregal:
I've installed a plug for my Ctek charger. (Note: Since I drive only of non-rainy days -- no wiper system -- and store the vehicle during are excessively long winter here in Ottawa 😢 , I've switched batteries from Red Top to Yellow Top).
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565bbchevy:
Yes, you're correct, but there's no way around that. However, it's now only one live wire instead of two -- 50% reduction to "Murphy's" chances! 😉
As noted on my schematic, I installed two battery cut-out switches -- one specifically for the stereo system (and capacitor) and the other takes care of the whole car. I find this very practical and useful when working on the car. All I have to do is turn that switch and then not worry abount getting zapped when I "wrench". It's also a very inexpensive and easy mod which (IMHO) provides much benefit.
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While that works IMO I would still add a remote solenoid up front and run your alternator and battery power and fusible links to that and put a jumper on the starter solenoid so the only wire going to the starter will be a battery cable off the remote solenoid that will only be hot when cranking and if you have headers that is even more of a reason to do it keeping heat away from hot wires. Another bonus is you can tap off the remote solenoid to add power to add on accessories or additional fuse boxes. relays etc. this is still a simple set up but eliminates all of those wires going to the starter which also makes removing that easier too.It is a nice setup that you have, I just prefer something far more simple.
I went from the battery through a breaker to the starter post, then to the alt post. Simple and efficient.
No worries about the hijack, it's still on topic for what I'm currently doing. I had also thought about putting a solenoid up front, but I worked really hard to clean the engine bay up and eliminate clutter, I don't wanna just add stuff back in and clutter it up.While that works IMO I would still add a remote solenoid up front and run your alternator and battery power and fusible links to that and put a jumper on the starter solenoid so the only wire going to the starter will be a battery cable off the remote solenoid that will only be hot when cranking and if you have headers that is even more of a reason to do it keeping heat away from hot wires. Another bonus is you can tap off the remote solenoid to add power to add on accessories or additional fuse boxes. relays etc. this is still a simple set up but eliminates all of those wires going to the starter which also makes removing that easier too.
Injectedcutty I apologize for the thread highjack
I'm constantly looking at your pics of your engine and as I move along with my build I can honestly say you did an incredible job eliminating clutter especially with the actual engine wiring.No worries about the hijack, it's still on topic for what I'm currently doing. I had also thought about putting a solenoid up front, but I worked really hard to clean the engine bay up and eliminate clutter, I don't wanna just add stuff back in and clutter it up.
Thank you sir! That was one of my main tasks with the swap. Attempt to make it look as if it doesn't run. Def not easy, but worth the effort IMO.I'm constantly looking at your pics of your engine and as I move along with my build I can honestly say you did an incredible job eliminating clutter especially with the actual engine wiring.
It is not an easy task
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