Alternator troubles

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Won't Halon suffocate you?
Yes, it is known to choke off oxygen. The thing i like about Halon is that it won't leave a mess like a chemical extinguisher will. In other words it leaves residue that will need to be cleaned up.
The company I worked for some years back had a Halon system installed in the server room.
 
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Yes, it is known to choke off oxygen. The thing i like about Halon is that it won't leave a mess like a chemical extinguisher will. In other words it leaves residue that will need to be cleaned up.
The company I worked for some years back had a Halon system installed in the server room.

I have a Halon extinguisher I bought to use in the barn where the welders and plasma cutter is used. The barn is a big area and the large door is usually opened so I'm not worried about it's side effects and I like that there is no clean up. The Halotron that replaces the Halon is way tooo expensive for me, it's around $250 for a 5 lbs bottle
 
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I have a Halon extinguisher I bought to use in the barn where the welders and plasma cutter is used. The barn is a big area and the large door is usually opened so I'm not worried about it's side effects and I like that there is no clean up. The Halotron that replaces the Halon is way tooo expensive for me, it's around $250 for a 5 lbs bottle
Wow! That's too rich for my blood. I'll probably just end up getting the old standard ABC extinguisher. Still better than nothing. Cleanup is the least of the two evils. If I'm not mistaken, aren't the chemical extinguishers corrosive?
 
Wow! That's too rich for my blood. I'll probably just end up getting the old standard ABC extinguisher. Still better than nothing. Cleanup is the least of the two evils. If I'm not mistaken, aren't the chemical extinguishers corrosive?

Corrosive and Non-Corrosive Fire Extinguishers

In industries that rely on the operational ability of electrical equipment, it is important to ensure that the flame extinguishing agent contained in the fire extinguisher is non-corrosive in nature.


  • Immediately, this discounts dry powder extinguishers, as even if the area is thoroughly cleaned after coming into contact with this extinguishing agent, a mildly corrosive effect can still occur (particularly if there is any hint of moisture).
  • CO2 extinguishers may be more suitable in this respect, and are sometimes used in computer rooms to remove fire by starving it of oxygen.
  • Water units should be avoided due to its lack of flexibility with class B, C and electrical fires, and excessive moisture can cause rust and other corrosive damage to some metals.
  • Other popular types, including foam and wet chemical extinguishers, may be appropriate depending on the environment in which they are utilised, but will need extensive cleaning following their use.
  • Halon extinguishers are highly flexible for use on all class A, B and C fires, and their non-corrosive and non-conductive chemical makeup makes them ideal for aircraft usage (see below for more).
 
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I had some questions related to my bulkhead... so I’m another one that found both fusible links burnt out on the started in the course of tracing the issue with my battery draining... so I’ve fixed the fusible link issue by replacing it with a fused distribution block... since I was at it I decided to clean the harness up by throwing some fiberglass wire loom on it... which led me to pull the pins from the bulkhead connector... before I put them back together I noticed the bulkhead connector had 3 unused female pins on the bottom of the C100a side... before buttoning stuff up I was wondering if anyone could tell me what they normally power or run to/from??
 

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So the bottom three female connectors in the fuseblock that connect to what ever mail ends would have went in the circled portion of the bulkhead connector... really all that matters is that they don’t relate to power windows or locks which I’m currently putting the wiring harness for on and connecting to the junction block, or the rallye gauge cluster I’m adding after that, which I think works off the existing wiring after changing the dummy light sensors to gauge style sending units....

any guidance would’ve appreciated
 

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