Contemplating about EFI conversion

[A_dude named_Ben]

I have been scouring through forums and reviews of efi kits like the ez 2.0, msd's atomic, and edelbrock likewise. I haven never really done anything with efi before, so I will be taking in things really slowly.
Here's the power plant:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp35512ctc1

I have made zero changes to it. I currently have a th350 transmission, 3.23 differential (peg leg). The el camino drives well, runs below 180 degrees on the highway, so far it hit at 18 mpg, I drive the el co about once a week (80% of driving is on the highway).

I have been thinking about this little setup http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-550-406
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-550-406
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-3605
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-3605
(I don't know if I should go for the 60 or 49 psi.)

I don't really like the idea of drilling a hole into the fire wall. I don't have AC, there is more room to put it somewhere on the passenger side under the hood.

My questions:
Is it worth it?
If so, are my choices work?

Anyways, I would like to hear from you guys who did something like this (I really don't care what product you're using).

 

[CWPottenger]

I switched over the F.A.S.T. EZ-EFI. From what I read the Terminator system is a good setup, I do not have any 1st had knowledge of it so I will stick to the basics of my experiences. My ride is a 84 Regal T-type w/ a 383SBC mill. I ran this with a carb for a few years and the performance was great and the economy was reasonable( hard to tell because I'm still playing and my right foot finds the floor board often). I came across a good deal on my EFI setup( less then $600 for a system w/ under 1000miles on it), so I couldn't pass up the deal. I had always like the idea of the TBI or TPI injection for my car, but when I started my build only options were redo a factory setup w/ expensive dyno trips and prom burns every time I wanted to change or at the time aftermarket EFI's that most said were more trouble then good. Well flash forward a few years and all the major aftermarket players have released systems that are reliable and you can update either in self-learn or a user interface of one kind or another.

I have only really begun to drive it around a tune it this spring, because I installed it last fall just before winter hit. I did not have any issues with my system, but I know some who have. I am very pleased w/ my system, especially the walk up push the start button and it fires up and idles in any temperature, that alone was great. The throttle response is also instant and crisp. My engine was already running what I thought was strong and the seat of the pants dyno after the EFI feels like it is even stronger. Other nice thing is when you shut engine off no chance for "dieseling" on a hot day( I had that occasionally on 90 plus days w/ the Carb). My fuel economy has also gone up, but I have not measured the increase yet.

I have a Regal T-type so my car was already setup for FI and has the in-tank baffles and pump. I upgraded my fuel system to the Racetronix pump and sender a few years back so I was set for the fuel supply for swap to EFI. I was running a Holley bypass regulator to bring psi down to 7psi and the return rest to the tank. So for me It was just change over to a vacuum referenced fuel regulator and change the braided fuel lines under the hood and add the fuel relay setup from the EZ-EFI setup in my fuel pump wiring. Just my personal opinion, but for the $600 for the Edelbrock sump pump setup you could go to an in-tank EFI for same if not less money and to me be a more reliable and cleaner install.

The ECU's can be mounted underhood and don't have to be in the cabin of the car. Just make sure they are mounted to best avoid water, oil, other electronic controls and exhaust heat. On my Regal since it had the factory ECU on the interior passenger kickboard I already had a hole in the firewall that worked perfectly to route the wire through for the EFI harness. I mounted my new EFI ECU where the factory one went and it fits perfectly and the original kick panel just needed some trimming of the factory ECU cage off the back side and it fit perfectly and you can't even see the ECU, but still readily accessible and protected.

I also had already gutted the wiring on my car and replaced it with a painless wiring harness so all my wiring is new clean and in good condition through out the car. I mention this because the biggest issue most people have with retrofit EFI's is the wiring and EMI noise. Our cars are from the factory electrically noisy because it didn't matter back then. Modern electronics do not handle noise well. That is why modern cars have more grounds built into the harnesses and shielded wires then you can count. So make sure you keep your wiring clean, route it away from other wires and electronic devices as much as possible. I also suggest an aftermarket ignition box like MSD, Mallory, etc. because all these system require a clean tach signal and standard HEI distributors do not have a clean signal at all( another issue people have w/ aftermarket EFI and erratic running). Also run all your main power and grounds to the battery NOT the engine/frame or fuse box.

You will need to add an O2 bung to your exhaust and make sure you don't have any upstream exhaust leaks and have enough downstream exhaust to not get atmospheric interference. This is a main data point for the ECU to self learn or for you to manually tune. Exhaust leaks will have you chasing a "ghost" and have erratic running of your engine.

So to answer your questions.

Yes I think worth it. Cost is the only detractor in my mind.
Yes your options will work. Take your time, follow instructions, wire it clean.

Good luck if you do it. I really love the change it made for me

 

[A_dude named_Ben]

Thanks for the information! I got two questions regarding what you stated.

- I have no experience with car wiring, I don't know what I should get, what would you recommend.

- What should I do with my distributor? Could a upgrade kit help with noise?

 

[CWPottenger]

Well, your 1st question is a bear trap....
If you are not comfortable with wiring then my recommendation is buy a 6 pack and a pizza for a friend who does feel comfortable wiring.
The basics of what you will need is a Volt meter/Ohm meter, Soldering iron (I prefer the gun style for on/off control and faster heat up), solder, wire cutters, wire strippers, heat shrink tubing, electrical connectors(ring lugs, spades, etc), wire loom, wire clamps, zip ties.
I went and looked up the instruction for the Terminator setup. They are fairly well done with decent pictures. I would suggest reading them couple times and make notes so you understand what features you need and do not need.
All the systems have the ability to be setup a couple of way so some wires/connectors may not be used and sometimes you may need to purchase an adapter harness to make it hook up in your application.

2nd question:
Holley shows in the instructions being able to hook it right up to your factory distributor, so the ECU probably has an integrated noise filter.
If you hook it up that way then your timing will still be controlled by mech advance and vacuum. Same if you go to a CD ignition box like a MSD, Mallory, Etc. If you upgrade to a dual sync distributor then the Terminator can also control the engine timing.

2nd question part 2: Yes, a MSD, Mallory,etc or dual sync distributor will greatly reduce noise and typically allows for easier and more precise tuning of your timing curve.

 

[A_dude named_Ben]

I downloaded the instructions for the terminator, I will be going over this in time.

If I have to upgrade my ignition and wiring, I'll be doing that first before the EFI conversion happens.

Will this distributor work? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-305005

As far as shopping ignition boxes go, what should I be looking for?

And about the wiring, I think I can do it. I think the wiring on the car is stock to some extent. I would feel better if I or get someone to redo it altogether (I really don't trust the previous owner). The thing is I am not even sure where to start. Should I just buy a kit from painless or should I replace individual set of wires?

 

[thepcsurgeon]

What HP are you planning to make, now and in the future? Check this out......http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1017640#Post1017640

 

[A_dude named_Ben]

I plan on making about the same horsepower I am currently making (the dyno sheet shows 426 hp @5400rpm and 446 ft.lbs @4100 rpm off the flywheel, I maybe outputting probably around 320 - 350 (assuming 17% - 25% loss)). This car I really don't plan on blowing, installing turbo, nitrous or something crazy in the near and distant future.

Yeah, I'll be look at that link surgeon.

 

[thepcsurgeon]

Those numbers fall into all the EFI systems so you really have a wide choice. Find the forums for your choice a read about all the issues before you purchase the product.
The wiring is not very complicated, usually the mistakes made are running them to close to the ignition wires and causing noise. A couple of butt connectors or ring ends and heat shrink tubing and your done. Get the best quality you can find and that will be hassle free.

 

[A_dude named_Ben]

Thanks for the information guys, I will have some thinking to do. Gonna do some more homework on this before I do anything serious (maybe except redoing the wiring).

My goal with my El Camino is to "refine" it for highway cruising. I don't have any plans racing it, if anything a pass or two down the 1/4 out of curiosity.

Right now, I will debate whether to keep the HEI and throw a upgrade kit or make the switch to duel-sync when I start the conversion.