All I have is this picture from my phone.
I just followed the LMC video, but I already have a junction box on the fenderwell for my rally computer, Ford style starter solenoid, etc, so I didn't need to go to the battery.
Fast Power Windows?
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All I have is this picture from my phone.
I just followed the LMC video, but I already have a junction box on the fenderwell for my rally computer, Ford style starter solenoid, etc, so I didn't need to go to the battery.
Well I just pulled the trigger and ordered up one of the LMC harness kits.
I wont have a chance to put it in for a while as Nova Scotia got dumped with snow and my baby is still in storage,but hopefully it will get done this summer.
Guy
Here are some more install pictures of the LMC harness on the Drivers door.
First I measured/marked the area for the relays to go, This it where the armrest is tall enough to fit the relays. Note the hole behind this area has a guillotine with gear teeth that will mess up ANYTHING that falls into this hole, so stay forward of this.
Then I straightened a coat hanger and fed it through the bellows from the inside to the door:
Wrapped the Power and Ground wire in the coat hanger...
Then taped over it so it wouldn't snag:
And pulled it through:
Cut the Wire from the switch to the Power window motor:
Separate and strip the 4 wire ends:
Attach LMC kit wires per the instructions:
Small gage relay wires go to the wires from the switch, Blue to blue, brown to black using the smaller gage blue butt connectors
Larger gage relay wires go to the Motor wires using the larger gage yellow butt connectors
Blue/white to Blue, Brown/Blue to Black.
Relays were then riveted in place and strapped down with wireties to reduce rattles:
Run the positive negative thru the firewall to the battery, add the supplied fuse holder and fuse and plug in the switches and reinstall the door panels and the windows should no longer be slow.
First I measured/marked the area for the relays to go, This it where the armrest is tall enough to fit the relays. Note the hole behind this area has a guillotine with gear teeth that will mess up ANYTHING that falls into this hole, so stay forward of this.
Then I straightened a coat hanger and fed it through the bellows from the inside to the door:
Wrapped the Power and Ground wire in the coat hanger...
Then taped over it so it wouldn't snag:
And pulled it through:
Cut the Wire from the switch to the Power window motor:
Separate and strip the 4 wire ends:
Attach LMC kit wires per the instructions:
Small gage relay wires go to the wires from the switch, Blue to blue, brown to black using the smaller gage blue butt connectors
Larger gage relay wires go to the Motor wires using the larger gage yellow butt connectors
Blue/white to Blue, Brown/Blue to Black.
Relays were then riveted in place and strapped down with wireties to reduce rattles:
Run the positive negative thru the firewall to the battery, add the supplied fuse holder and fuse and plug in the switches and reinstall the door panels and the windows should no longer be slow.
I'm surprised this wasn't mentioned here already.
I really hated the slow factory electric windows in my Elky. I bought a different designed setup from A1 Electric and installed them several years ago. They are WAY faster than the original type. I'm totally happy. No relays needed.
A1's kit will work with cars that had manual windows also. You can buy it with switches if your car is presently manual.
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=GM19-K
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=GM19-K
I really hated the slow factory electric windows in my Elky. I bought a different designed setup from A1 Electric and installed them several years ago. They are WAY faster than the original type. I'm totally happy. No relays needed.
A1's kit will work with cars that had manual windows also. You can buy it with switches if your car is presently manual.
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=GM19-K
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=GM19-K
I'm wiring in the relays for my windows this weekend so thanks for the nice big colored diagram.....🙂
I wired up the passenger side lime the diagram you posted and all I get is a click from the positive side up or down, The relay that should be the ground is not passing the ground which causes the other relay to click. I get the same response using the driver door passenger window switch. I know that diagram was for a F body but it shouldn't make a difference since the only wires that affected are the leads to the window motor. Did you have problems on the F body similar to mine?
I found another diagram that I will try out, it includes a couple of diodes which makes sense.
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The problem I see with the original diagram posted is that the motors have 2 wires (Blue/blk and Blue/wht) and revering polarity on those wires makes the motor go up and down. To reverse polarity with 2 relays, you need SPDT relays (5 pole) and not SPST relays (4 pole). When Blue/wht wire is + the, the Blue/blk wire becomes the ground, and when the Blue/blk wire is +, the Blue/blk wire becomes the ground. That Post #3 circuit doesn't do that.
This circuit diagram in Post #3 seems to be for window motors with a separate ground wire (3 wire motors) or case common ground motors and not our 2 wire motors.
Our motors are NOT case common ground or 3 wire motors.
This circuit diagram in Post #3 seems to be for window motors with a separate ground wire (3 wire motors) or case common ground motors and not our 2 wire motors.
Our motors are NOT case common ground or 3 wire motors.
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The Diodes aren't what are making that circuit work. The 5 pole SPDT relays are.
It would still work fine without the diodes. EE's put those diodes in their so they can seem smarter than us normal humans. The diode is just to extend the life of the relay by reducing voltage spikes. Voltage spikes may create problems after 1,000,000 window cycles, but you just pop on a another $4 Relay and you are good for another 1,000,000 window cycles.
I would rate the diodes as "not worth the effort" in this application, but I'm not an EE, just a normal human.
I'm going to check with my friend today who's installed stuff in cars for the last 1/4 century. He uses diodes in vehicles for door locks that reverse the polarity in the wires so I'll see what he says about this diagram and about the other diagram which would not work for me.
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