help please
- Thread starter skatepirate77
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I had a problem with modules overheating to the point they'd shut down but would reset when they cooled...it was the coil causing them to overheat
should i return my coil for another and give it a shot. Thanks for the help everyone. This is why I love this website and love having a gbody.
If the timing chain is completely broke or enough of the teeth on the gear are broke then you won't habe spark. Easy check would be to see if the rotor is spinning when you are cranking it.
here's how to test the coil...borrowed from another site.
On the coil, Remove and invert the cap, Measure between the tach and BATT terminals , using a DVOM, Set to OHMS scale, RX1 and calibrated to 000. It should read less than an ohm, but more than 000, If not it's bad.
Next measure the secondary, set your DVOM scale to RX10k or higher..put the probes between the BATT and the carbon pickup for the COIL..it should read between 6000 and 30,000 OHMS..Outside of that range toss the coil and get a new one.
On the coil, Remove and invert the cap, Measure between the tach and BATT terminals , using a DVOM, Set to OHMS scale, RX1 and calibrated to 000. It should read less than an ohm, but more than 000, If not it's bad.
Next measure the secondary, set your DVOM scale to RX10k or higher..put the probes between the BATT and the carbon pickup for the COIL..it should read between 6000 and 30,000 OHMS..Outside of that range toss the coil and get a new one.
test showed coil is still good. My module still test good. Rotor is still spinning when i crank it so that is good. This hei system has me at a complete loss right now. I am starting to think i am missing something extremely simple. Thanks again for all your help guys.
Well sometimes on a new module i like to put heatsink compound on them so it helps resist heat. and the timing chain sounds like ur problem. ive seen cars thats had me stumped thousands of times i was throwin in new distributors and everything and was still havin problems. at the time i didnt think it could be the timing chain cuz i was like oh well its still turning over so it should still fire right well then i started to notice that sometimes it would fire and sometimes it wouldnt so i said what the hell il check it out i got the water pump took off and the cover then i noticed that the chain had a ton of slack so i put a new one in (double roller) and it fixed it. so all that stuff i bought before like coil module plugs cap rotor plug wires even a new distributor i didnt need lol i mean its good to check that stuff first but u see what i mean
if you took your module to the local parts store to have it checked, the tester they use only test one side of the module. i ma not the type to just throw a new part in to see if it works but i have had this happen before and i put a new module in and the car runs just fine. for less than 20.00 it not a bad try.
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