New engine no start issue

[1badgbody]

If it's backfiring, you have fuel and you have spark, can't get a backfire without both. I would pull the wires off, pop the dizzy, bring it back to top dead center on the compression, reset the dizzy with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug terminal on the cap and re-do the plug wires. Definitely sounds like you're a few teeth out, 180 out or have the wires going to the wrong plugs or terminals on the cap. Bad carb might keep it from running but won't keep it from firing. Check the valve lash if you haven't already, for that matter turn the engine over by hand and make sure all of your rockers are moving. It's unlikely but not impossible that the valves weren't lashed or the timing gear wasn't installed or degreed properly when it left the shop. Like one of the other members said, hope you have a roller cam. Good luck!!!

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

If it's backfiring, you have fuel and you have spark, can't get a backfire without both. I would pull the wires off, pop the dizzy, bring it back to top dead center on the compression, reset the dizzy with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug terminal on the cap and re-do the plug wires. Definitely sounds like you're a few teeth out, 180 out or have the wires going to the wrong plugs or terminals on the cap. Bad carb might keep it from running but won't keep it from firing. Check the valve lash if you haven't already, for that matter turn the engine over by hand and make sure all of your rockers are moving. It's unlikely but not impossible that the valves weren't lashed or the timing gear wasn't installed or degreed properly when it left the shop. Like one of the other members said, hope you have a roller cam. Good luck!!!

Got past that part, now I'm on to a whole heap of new issues instead lol.

I'll eventually get this all figured out. Got a fortune cookie today that said, "Determination will get you through this" and I was just like, "Wow, that's fitting."

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

Went to the parts store, brought the old hose with me, they let me go in back and look at what they had. Picked out one of those accordion looking jobbers (ACDelco brand which was surprising that they had it in stock) and it was about the right length, has a big spring on the inside, just like the other accordion jobber I had at home. This one though, actually fits so I'm using that now. Got a new thermostat, 165 degree like the last one, but this one I drilled a small 1/8" hole in for a little flow even when it's closed. Filled up the radiator, burped it by squeezing the upper hose (the lower hose is so stiff now you can't squeeze it, nor can it be collapsed).

Went to the back of the car, pulled the gas tank down, and drained all the fuel into some old gerry cans, and now I'm about to order a new sending unit with the o-ring and lock ring. I figure the strainer has seen decades worth of garbage, it's cheap insurance to get a new one. When that comes in, I'll put it in the tank, put the tank back in, and fill it up with 93 Octane, then before I start up the engine, I'll enrich the idle fuel mixture a full turn on each side, and set the idle screw back about 2-3 turns. That way it'll idle slower, and hopefully burn cooler. I'll tune it up and try to set overall timing at that point.

For now though, I'm just gonna kick back a beer and relax.

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

The old fuel in the tank was absolutely nasty stuff too. Orange brown color and hardly smelled like regular gasoline anymore... it was "dulled" I guess you could say. Funny because what I vacuum pumped out of the tank from the line DID look fine, so I guess the strainer on the original sender was working pretty well. I couldn't get all of it out, so there's about 1 gallon left in it now, but I figure if I put 10 gallons of 93 octane it'll be okay.

Either way, by the time I get the sending unit in the mail most of it should evaporate.

 

[pontiacgp]

If it's an orange brown color sounds like your tank may be rusting inside out

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

If it's an orange brown color sounds like your tank may be rusting inside out

Nah, I looked all inside, it actually looked really clean on the inside from what I could see. Maybe on the top where I can't see though. I'll look inside with a mirror tomorrow.

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

Took a mirror and flashlight to look around the inside of the tank. For the most part it's just as clean around as it is on the bottom. I did notice some rust starting around the belt line in the back. Only a couple of spots though, very tiny, but dirt brown in color. Still, I can't see the other side of the baffle so there could be more in there along with more dirt. I'd hate to have to get a new tank, because this one is the original, but as my Uncle always said... in for a penny, in for a pound.

 

[fleming442]

If you have the tank out, go ahead and flush the lines front to back......

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

If you have the tank out, go ahead and flush the lines front to back......

Well for once I can say I'm ahead of the curve lol

 

[Buford T. JuSStice]

Heh, looking around for a fuel tank and sending unit... probably a complaint everybody here has had, but I don't mind spending the extra money to get a well made tank like a Goodmark, but I just wish that the prospective ship date was sometime this MONTH from Goodmark and OPG.

On the other hand, if I want something earlier, there's always Spectra... but the way the filler neck is made and the way it's secured in the tank is suspect at best. It looks like it just slides in and then they use solder or lead to secure it in place. Then there's the material it's made out of... yikes. lol