I'm hoping that's the case...just the leak, but I do need to rotate the crankshaft and check the timing marks at TDC and check for chain slop...I would just fix the leak and be done with it, the car seems to run smooth enough anything beyond the repair is just opening up a can of worms and your wallet wide open.
If he can do it with the engine in, then for sure.I would just fix the leak and be done with it, the car seems to run smooth enough anything beyond the repair is just opening up a can of worms and your wallet wide open.
Well I don't know really know about the tach being accurate. I've looked into that, how common is that setting overlooked ?My 2 cents.....it sounds like it runs reasonably well. Fix the leak and leave the rest of it alone. Also doesn't sound like 1500RPm in the video, are you sure the tach is accurate? Maybe the switch is set to 4 cyl?
The engine could be anything....and the drive setup was probably added to the car, since as far as I remember, the square body trucks still used V belt setups.
Whats the casting number?Well I don't know really know about the tach being accurate. I've looked into that, how common is that setting overlooked ?
Exactly, the engine could be anything...
Universal tachs usually have a switch for 4,6 or 8 cylinder that has to set for your application then others you have to cut the correct color wires to achieve the same thing.Well I don't know really know about the tach being accurate. I've looked into that, how common is that setting overlooked ?
Exactly, the engine could be anything...
I got a pretty big gap between the oil pan and cross member...If he can do it with the engine in, then for sure.
Universal tachs usually have a switch for 4,6 or 8 cylinder that has to set for your application then others you have to cut the correct color wires to achieve the same thing.
What does it take to get to my tach and look at that setting...I agree with Ribbedroof on the tach is does not sound like it is idling at your tach reading.
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