Timing Chain Inspection and Replacement
- Thread starter Tynan918
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It is not a name brand I have ever used but it had good reviews and it's not like this is going on a performance application that requires top notch parts.
You are fixing a leak so pretty much any new timing chain is an upgrade.
Just making sure it isn't cheap, I don't want to turn around 1-3 months to replace it, when I can get something of higher quality, even with a basic street motor...
Before I get started, I need to make sure I have the right tools for the job before I start taking things apart.
I have all the basic tools needed to take off parts down to the water pump.
After the water pump, I'll need to remove the crank pully and harmonic balancer before I can get to the timing cover (obviously).
Is this puller set good for the crankshaft pulley ?
And is this a good pick to pull the haromic balancer ?
I have all the basic tools needed to take off parts down to the water pump.
After the water pump, I'll need to remove the crank pully and harmonic balancer before I can get to the timing cover (obviously).
Is this puller set good for the crankshaft pulley ?
And is this a good pick to pull the haromic balancer ?
Besides fixing this timing cover leak, my goal is to also inspect the timing marks on TDC and the timing chain to insure the root of my engine timing is accurate inside the engine, eliminating the timing gears and chain causing my timing set troubles...
Is this the right size crankshaft socket I'll need to turn the crankshaft after the crankshaft pully and harmonic balancer are removed ?
Is this the right size crankshaft socket I'll need to turn the crankshaft after the crankshaft pully and harmonic balancer are removed ?
I would borrow the tools from your relatives that have "the tools you need to do anything" or use the "loan a tool program" and see what is available from Autozone or some other place, I feel these tools are only going to be a one time use thing for you so buying them is just wasting money if there are other options to get them that don't cost anything.
Also your new chrome timing cover did come with a new timing pointer?
Actually, while I'm down there tackling all of this, if I remove the radiator, would I have enough room to pull out the camshaft and identify what I have in order to know my correct timing calculations to actually know where my timing is set ?
Or is there a way I can identify the camshaft without pulling it out ?
Note: Previous owner says the motor was rebuilt and only had 46,000 miles when I bought it. He said he doesnt know much about cars or too much about the engine, except it was rebuilt, had only 46,000 miles on it, and was a 350 (which actually came out to be this 305), and some local mechanic had rebuilt the engine. He had a racing setup on the car and the engine. The engine used to have a single plane Edelbrock Victor Jr. Said it was his uncles car he inherited when his uncle passed away, and that it sat a year before I bought it.
I believe the uncle or the previous owner built this car for racing or maybe raced it at some point in time.
Therefore I want to see if the timing chain setup and camshaft are actually stock or some aftermarket racing parts.
I have played with the timing basically since I bought it, at my fault. I replaced the distributor and cranked over the engine before reinstalling it 🤦🏾♂...
Since then it seems like I can't find the correct timing. I can't seem to idle below 1,000 RPM without the engine stubbling, running rough, or sometimes stalling. Factory settings say 6° BTDC @600 rpm...
Over time I have found out that the engine has a truck engine assembly setup, indicating the engine was pulled from a truck, and the aftermarket timing mark that was installed with the current aftermarket timing cover, turned out to be the wrong timing mark position for this year of engine (83-84)...
I've done a compression test, leak down test, checked for vacuum leaks using a vacuum gauge, swapped the single plane intake for an Edelbrock Performer RPM, rebuilt the carburetor, adjusted the idle mixture screws, took out, dropped, retarded, and advanced the distributor multiple times in a number of different ways...🤷🏾♂... Nothing...
With the idle at 600 rpm and 6° BTDC, the engine stalls in about 60 seconds. 600 rpm and 8 -10° BTDC the engine runs rough. With both of these settings, carburetor idle mixture screws turned 2 turns out, and a vacuum gauge attached, vacuum gauge reads 16 Hg" and in the red reading "Late Timing". Turning the screws in clockwise does "nothing to worse (stall)", and turning them out counter clockwise makes things a bit better but not much. But if I advance the distributor then it runs smoothly and the gauge reads 18 - 19 Hg" and in the green area reading "Normal Motor" but the rpm reads 1200, and bringing down the rpm causes rough idle and the lowest I can get the rpm from this point is 750 without the engine stalling, and the vacuum gauge reading "Late Timing".
Figured I've tried everything on the top end of timing extensively, might as well go ahead and check it all out while I'm that far into it, especially since this engine is questionable rebuilt and what it came with, I'm assuming.
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