Vortec 350

Status
Not open for further replies.
blk74nova said:
I think the fuel pump boss can be opened up at the machine shop. Some blocks were drilled for the mech fuel pump.

What are your goals for the car? Nice cruiser, drag car, little of both? I say build the 383. I have been gathering parts for my 383 vortech. Its easier to change heads later on for more power, than to pull the motor back out to stroke it. My opinion is different than turbo78's. A 350 and a 383 set up with the exact same, the 383 will walk all over the 350 and be a milder motor. If you get the right crank and rods, there might not be any clearanceing needed on the oil pan rails. Get a 1pcs rear main stroker crank( eagle, scat, etc.) and a good set of rods and pistons.

Turbo mentioned sacrificing rpm. You can build any motor to turn whatever rpm you want but durability becomes an issue. If its a race car it may see high rpm for a few seconds during a race. If your car is a street car or a little of both, most of your rpm is around 2000-4500 rpm depending on transmission. I'll take the torque down low where i can use it instead of a bigger hp number at an rpm that isnt used.
in my opinion, after running both, stroked and not stroked, driveability as well as street manners are going to be your choices in deciding which of the engines to build. if you find a vortech block that doesnt need any rod clearancing when you stroke it, by some lottery tickets quick. but anyways, blk74nova makes good points, just remember, build it for whatever your intended purpose will be. and i personally would rather run a .030 over 350 to 7500 rpm than a 383 to 6000. not to mention when you break it, youre not into a stock stroke bottom end near what you would be in a stroker. 😀
 
Also the webing is thicker on a 2 bolt block.

there is no difference in the thickness of the webbing in a 2 bolt or 4 bolt 350..the castings were the same..as an example the 010 block came with 2 or 4 bolt mains...
 
from what i've heard there is no effective strength difference between either the 2 or 4 bolt blocks until you exceed 6k rpms or so.
 
pontiacgp said:
Also the webing is thicker on a 2 bolt block.

there is no difference in the thickness of the webbing in a 2 bolt or 4 bolt 350..the castings were the same..as an example the 010 block came with 2 or 4 bolt mains...
meaning the webbing is thicker because there is less holes in it.
 
"not to mention when you break it, youre not into a stock stroke bottom end near what you would be in a stroker".- Turbo78

Not true. Scat and Eagle both list crank prices as the same for a 350 or a 383. The rods are exactly the same and the pistons are the same price. I see no reason to use an old 400 cranks and spend at least $100 to get it ready for a 350 block. One reason I like the 383 idea is because its free cubic inches. At most it will just cost a little to clearance the block. Other than that and maybe paying for a rebalance, the only difference will be at the gas pump. 😀
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor