thank you, thought provoking. i'll look into it.
joe
What did you do to your G-Body today? [2011-2018]
- Thread starter dlo253
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joe
Somehow broke the bolt that holds the alternator bracket to the block. Noticed the temp gauge rising and shut it down. Called dad and he MacGyver'd it.
http://imgur.com/echXy8j
http://imgur.com/BV9PR7T
http://imgur.com/echXy8j
http://imgur.com/BV9PR7T
I got the correct throttle cable bracket for my 350 SP motor in the mail Friday and I installed it promptly. Looks pretty damn nice, guy shined it up a bit. Contemplating degreasing and clearing or painting it black. I like some bling here and there, but black is always cool. Also ran into a conundrum. Pre '75 models (all GM afaik) use linkage from the pedal directly to the trans to downshift whereas the 75 up models (again, afaik) used the cables we all know and loathe that attach to the throttle arm on the carb. Therefore the older model carbs do NOT have the extra stud for the kickdown cable on the throttle linkage. "Why not just swap another carb on and/or another bracket" you may ask. Well, I have tried. Every style of quadrajet (save for early Buick) has the throttle arm dangling down below the throttle bladed for some reason and this is a problem for me. And I refuse to run anything other than a qjet. The Buick intake for this particular vintage has the carb pad damn near 100% level with the rest of the intake. No plenum at all. Therefore, the throttle arm of any quadrajet (even my favorite for Buick engines, the 800cfm 17058241 ['78 350 specific]) hits the intake pretty good. Either no throttle or all of the throttle. No dice. I know spacers exist, but didn't know what size I should get. Too big, geometry off. Too small, carb linkage still hits. I took the '70 carb off, grabbed some washers, my cheapo chinese digital calipers, and sat the 17058241 on my intake on the washers after measuring out that 7 of them were .486 inches tall. Close enough. Turns out, a 1/2 inch is the space needed for the newer style carb to clear the intake. On the new carb it has the clip style throttle cable mount (older has ball stud mount) and the extra nub for the kickdown cable. The washer under the arm is 1/16 thick, so there is a teeny-tiny bit more than 1/16 clearance between. Plus the spacer will require two gaskets, so there will be a tad more clearance. Also, gonna fab up a little dongle that'll bolt on the two holes on the bracket to hold the kickdown cable. Thinkin of maiming one of the spare chevy brackets I have to accomplish this... I love being a hotrodder. Turns one into an engineer if only for about 20 minutes. 😛 Pictures show what I done did and the uh, levelness (that's a word?) of the new carb vs the bracket. Also, took a rather cool picture of the throttle stud of the old carb through the throttle cable bracket hole. Man that's a lot of words. I'm just oddly pumped about this I guess. I may be at a stand still funding the project but any progress is good progress dammit.
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Well I'm back on prepping my quarter windows for the 2nd time with some SEM trim black. The 1st go around I followed SEM's directions and didn't use adhesion promoter. Needless to say, the paint didn't stick.
So after learning my lesson, and using SEM on a bunch of stuff since, I am scuffing the trim again. I will clean them and tape them up, and hopefully have success this time around. I should have them done in a bit.
Before....
So after learning my lesson, and using SEM on a bunch of stuff since, I am scuffing the trim again. I will clean them and tape them up, and hopefully have success this time around. I should have them done in a bit.
Before....
Changed the really slow 575 flasher in the Monte to one of these: http://www.tridon.com.au/products/T...1/flasher-relays-electro-mechanical/1769/HD12
And the flash rate picked up right away.
I think the 575 (designed for 1-8 bulbs) is load dependant for flash rate as I have a bunch of bulbs burned out up front. I also had a 552 (for 2-6 bulbs) but didn't bother to try it because I am not a contortionist.
And the flash rate picked up right away.
I think the 575 (designed for 1-8 bulbs) is load dependant for flash rate as I have a bunch of bulbs burned out up front. I also had a 552 (for 2-6 bulbs) but didn't bother to try it because I am not a contortionist.
Pressure washed the under body today for the second time and degreased it for the first time...probably won't Por 15 for a couple of weeks.Got our springs,shocks and some suspension components from RockAuto this week...painted the KYB shocks today and cleared them.
My amp will shut down when the volume is way up so I change my cap that was bulging and replaced the wiring including the ground with a new cap. I use my test light to drain and charge a cap. So I grabbed one of my test lights to drain the old cap and was standing there waiting for the light to go out. I waited longer than I should for the light to go out........then it dawned on me, I was using the test light that has an led.....
trans wouldn't shift pass drive... removed the cable the shifter shifts all gears, checked the trans sure enough it's inside, drop the pan to find two bolts from the valve body in the pan and the 3rd half way off blocking the shift linkage....
I took a little drive to meet axisg and his son and grabbed a coffee. I had his horn gaskets that were ordered along with the gaskets I needed so I gave them to him today. He overpaid me which I unsuccessfully tried to return to him. It was great meeting another member and his son who has an El Camino. They were headed off to a local to me scrap yard so I hope they found some good parts.
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