Got the fuel tank hung, sender installed, and lines started.
What did you do to your G-Body today? [2011-2018]
- Thread starter dlo253
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My back up E curve distributor seems to be causing issues, starting the car it can act like the timing is way too far advanced so I took a trip to pick up an MSD 8360 distributor that was only used for a few hours to dyno an engine. Got it for $200 so that is basically 1/2 price in Canada. I have a couple of MSD 85551 distributors but I need the box to run those and my box died this summer. I'll send the 2 E curve distributors in to get repaired this winter. The nice thing with the 8360 is that it uses the same rotor and cap the E curves use so it's an easy swap.
Yesterday got a sandblasting cabinet from Harbor Freight. ****in thing leaks media so I bought some duct tape as well. But it does the job. Got to grab some more glass bead this week.
Also ordered my crower level 3 cam, lifters, paint, and primer. Today finished up filing flashing from my lifter valley, while my little brother worked on his 350 chevy.
This weekend I'll gradually start assembling my 350.
Also ordered my crower level 3 cam, lifters, paint, and primer. Today finished up filing flashing from my lifter valley, while my little brother worked on his 350 chevy.
This weekend I'll gradually start assembling my 350.
They all leak. You have to dissemble them and re-asemble them with silicone on the seams.
I got a cabinet of craigslist. Sucker leaked pretty bad but I was to lazy to take it all apart to silicone it.. I used the Flexiseal crap from Walmart.. I just took the glass off and started spraying away at all the seams and so far so good. We will see how long the bandaid works lol.
I recently adjusted the steering play in my steering box. Man what a difference! If nobody has done this to their car yet they should give it a try and see how much play is tightened up by doing this. My car was never adjusted since it was new and boy what a difference in cornering and just the overall feel of the steering being much tighter. There is a post on this adjustment somewhere just do a search, it's just basically tightening the meshing of the steering gears in the steering box by loosening the 5/8 bolt on top of the box and then giving the allen bolt a few turns in to tighten the gears a little. Don't go to far as the steering may bind if you do to much.
Spent a few hours listening to music and disassembling my heads (along with some wicked air guitar solos) and these are the pics I took:
Look at all the crap that was in that port! That wasn't even the worst one of the bunch.
Got ALL 14 bolts out without breaking a single one. Not gonna lie, kinda feelin like a badass right now.
Driver's side manifold is cracked, not surprised. As far as I could tell, that was the only blemish on these manifolds that I could see. My other set were cracked and ready to fall apart on the mounting ears. I think it should be a cheap fix. I'd fix it myself, but I don't have a welder.
All 16 valves look great (for being 47 years old) although the engine was rebuilt (gaskets, cam, re-ringed, etc) sometime ago so maybe that's why they look so good. Did look as if it was running a tad rich near the end of it's previous life.
Old valve spring on the left, new Comp 980-16 spring with damper on the right. I'd say I did a pretty decent job picking springs. The shorter springs will have more seat pressure but allow for a little less lift, which is fine by me. The cam only has peak lift of .468 anyway. The cam that was in it before was a .380ish lift stock replacement cam. Plus these should dance around less thanks to the damper.
<=== lil video of the junk inside my heads. Damn Nebraskan mice!
Look at all the crap that was in that port! That wasn't even the worst one of the bunch.
Got ALL 14 bolts out without breaking a single one. Not gonna lie, kinda feelin like a badass right now.
Driver's side manifold is cracked, not surprised. As far as I could tell, that was the only blemish on these manifolds that I could see. My other set were cracked and ready to fall apart on the mounting ears. I think it should be a cheap fix. I'd fix it myself, but I don't have a welder.
All 16 valves look great (for being 47 years old) although the engine was rebuilt (gaskets, cam, re-ringed, etc) sometime ago so maybe that's why they look so good. Did look as if it was running a tad rich near the end of it's previous life.
Old valve spring on the left, new Comp 980-16 spring with damper on the right. I'd say I did a pretty decent job picking springs. The shorter springs will have more seat pressure but allow for a little less lift, which is fine by me. The cam only has peak lift of .468 anyway. The cam that was in it before was a .380ish lift stock replacement cam. Plus these should dance around less thanks to the damper.
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