What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

[ck80]

My mom's Subaru had a similar parking lot hit and run a few years ago, busted a taillight and dented the bumper cover, broke the clips that the bumper cover snaps into. Didn't send it to the insurance, I got used taillight, bought the bumper clip thing, touched up the scrapes and pushed out the bumper cover... looked okay for how bad it was.
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Didn't matter anyways because a year later, maybe less, she sideswiped the garage and they basically replaced the passenger side of the car- 2 doors, pulled the quarter, rear bumper, taillight, all that body cladding down the side, probably some stuff I'm forgetting.

Still looked pretty good, and I think the white helped hid the waves a bit?

Probably going to pop the cover off to get a peek behind, maybe monday. According to the rep I talked to at Amica, she conferenced an underwriter so the net cost to me is about $40 a cycle until I get back on the claim free threshold. Financially, especially if there's diminished value available, might as well get some cash back from the leeches.

 

[2drx4]

Got the expanded steel welded to the tongue of the trailer:

I'm going to put some rings in to strap the spare down there when I actually take it. Otherwise I just want to be able to stand there.

 

[CopperNick]

So, if recall correctly, the last episode of the never ending list of things to do, ended with me having nuts'ed and bolts'ed the S-10 the day after the funeral to revisit the exhaust system and make sure everything was tight. This week it has been my daily driver again as, I think I mentioned, i dropped the driveshaft on the Van. So here goes.




The pdf file that I think I managed to attach to this shows the two versions of the pinion yoke that a 10 bolt can come with. Apart from the whole business of measurements which is useful, the primary difference is the presence or absence of those small lugs at the outboard ends of the cradles in the yoke for the u-joint bearing cups. With the lugs being there, they act as a positive stops to keep the cups from migrating away from the cross yoke. Should those lugs be absent, however, the bearing cups have to be located and locked in place using a circlip ring that snaps into position in a groove that is cut in the cup body for that purpose.

What apparently may have happened is that, at some point in the past, new U-joints were installed in the driveshaft but the clips for the back cups that rode the pinion yoke were omitted. Can't say for sure how long ago but it has to either predate or be a while you're there exercise that coincided with the transmission swap to the 700R4. Anyway, the van got driven, minus the clips, for over a year at least before centrifugal force overcame the clamping force of the cup retaining straps and the one cup popped out. it probably didn't help that I was in heavy traffic and flying at the time.

So yesterday, after a fast chat with the tech rep at my local Napa, back under the van I went and in went those clips. I had not moved the van since plugging the drive shaft back in as i had known about the clip business a few days earlier but this was a shade tree exercise due to it the van being in the front drive and the weather kept interfering with my work time. So that is all taken care of.

At this point I can't point a finger at anyone but the face in the mirror, but I also do not recall the bearing cups prior to the set that failed having circlips fitted to them as retainers either so................ Just as a precaution, I did elect to order new straps and mounting bolts. What is in there is used, scored from out of a stash of them that I accumulated a while ago JIC and while in good shape, I have no idea how old they are and metal fatigue is always possible with decades old components no matter how pristine they appear to be.

Did manage to get both the rear exhaust pipe dumps cleaned to where they look semi-respectable and yes, I do have pictures which will get uploaded probably later today or as time allows.

 

[Tomeal]

Calling joesregalproject

Don't feel like digging into this project this weekend. Figured I'd throw it out here and see what anyone else thinks.






See second pic. Gas is leaking with a little oil mixed in onto the pulley underneath. There is no gas around the carb leaking. I'm a little baffled as to why under the engine.

Probably won't dig into it till after labor day, but I think the engine is gonna need to come off for a better look.

 

[ck80]

Calling joesregalproject

Don't feel like digging into this project this weekend. Figured I'd throw it out here and see what anyone else thinks.

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See second pic. Gas is leaking with a little oil mixed in onto the pulley underneath. There is no gas around the carb leaking. I'm a little baffled as to why under the engine.

Probably won't dig into it till after labor day, but I think the engine is gonna need to come off for a better look.

I've got a couple ponys outside that we mow with if you end up needing some 'how it should look' pictures.

Also have a tb42/bronco tore up to the frame and engine/hydro to the extent that will help. If you throw in the towel, maybe I need to measure if the steering wheel would clear intto the yukon and take it off your hands, add it to the herd.

 

[joesregalproject]

Calling joesregalproject

Don't feel like digging into this project this weekend. Figured I'd throw it out here and see what anyone else thinks.

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See second pic. Gas is leaking with a little oil mixed in onto the pulley underneath. There is no gas around the carb leaking. I'm a little baffled as to why under the engine.

Probably won't dig into it till after labor day, but I think the engine is gonna need to come off for a better look.

Check the oil in the engine, see if it is diluted with gas. If it is, I'm willing to bet the needle and seat in the carb are shot. Common problem with those Briggs Inteks with gravity feed fuel tanks. Gravity will push the fuel through the leaky carb while it sits and it will flood the crankcase. Fuel is thinner than oil and will damage rubber faster and it will cause the engine seals to leak.

 

[Tomeal]

That explains the raw fuel blowing out the exhaust when trying to start it.

 

[Tomeal]

Check the oil in the engine, see if it is diluted with gas. If it is, I'm willing to bet the needle and seat in the carb are shot. Common problem with those Briggs Inteks with gravity feed fuel tanks. Gravity will push the fuel through the leaky carb while it sits and it will flood the crankcase. Fuel is thinner than oil and will damage rubber faster and it will cause the engine seals to leak.

Yup, gas in the oil. Oil and gas mix coming from the bottom of the engine.

I guess this is no longer a simple fix.

 

[Clutch]

All I've done so far today is get more frustrated. So now I'm at EJ's shop he's been calling his Diesel buddies to see if anyone can finish my truck. My back is screaming and I can't do much more of this without a brake. So far no one wants to do it or there all to busy it's about 95% humid today so EJ said let's go there tonight when it cools off a bit and bring a top side creeper and big fan and the 2 of us will try to get it done and out of the shop. Then I'll just need tuning. We shall see I'm just in to much pain right now to do anymore

 

[joesregalproject]

That explains the raw fuel blowing out the exhaust when trying to start it.

Yup sure sounds like the problem.

Yup, gas in the oil. Oil and gas mix coming from the bottom of the engine.

I guess this is no longer a simple fix.

If it hasn't been run with the diluted oil, it might not be a hard fix. Change the oil and buy a carb kit. Or if you want to do it the easy way, install a 1/4 turn fuel shutoff between the carb and tank- turn it off whenever the mower is going to sit for more than a few minutes. The crank seal might not leak once you change the oil if you are lucky.