What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]
- Thread starter g0thiac
- Start date
- Status
No, but you'll have to pull the engine out of the frame and flip it over, yank the pulley off pull the seal out and tap a new one in.
Not as bad as I thought then. I'll dig into it and figure out which way I'll go.
Thanks for the info. I'd still be trying to decipher Google searches on what is wrong with it!
I got this from a neighbor today, he'd asked me about fixing an oil leak when I was balls deep in the Z06.
He hit me up again last night which was a really good time as I took leave next week and the Z is pretty much good. Well the oil leak turned out to be a trans leak, so I popped a new tail seal in, dumped a quart in, and went for a drive. Trans felt great, he said it was being weird and that turned out to be low fluid level. In the garage, the trans seemed full but after a quick drive it was no longer touching the stick. The fluid that I'd just poured down the fill tube was making it about impossible to get a decent reading, so back home I went. Along the drive, I wound it up to highway speeds and saw a 100+ RPM bump when I'd lean into the thing with the TC locked. It also had a P1870 which is a trans slippage code. And it was current, plus everything else. K, let's see about wiping out the PWM function on this thing. So I drop the trans pan on this 248,000 mile machine that I assume has never seen a trans flush and find this, even after slippage.
It's dark, it's oxidized, but it's not burned, there's no mud in the pan, and there is nothing on that magnet. I think it's gonna survive. But I yoinked the TCC PWM valve, came out kinda hard, and looks nothing like the delete valve I had in my 1500 pre-4L80 swap. Purple dealie came out of this truck, the smaller diameter setup came from the valve body of my stuff.
I pulled this thing apart knowing I had a delete valve on hand, now I'm feeling kinda stuck, but I'm told if I keep the valve from stroking it becomes a PWM delete. I really wonder if it isn't that already, the truck shifted out and locked up like a dreamboat, it just didn't hold under load. I have to get this right one and done if nothing else for my own personal pride, but I feel it unlikely that the TCC itself is wasted.
He hit me up again last night which was a really good time as I took leave next week and the Z is pretty much good. Well the oil leak turned out to be a trans leak, so I popped a new tail seal in, dumped a quart in, and went for a drive. Trans felt great, he said it was being weird and that turned out to be low fluid level. In the garage, the trans seemed full but after a quick drive it was no longer touching the stick. The fluid that I'd just poured down the fill tube was making it about impossible to get a decent reading, so back home I went. Along the drive, I wound it up to highway speeds and saw a 100+ RPM bump when I'd lean into the thing with the TC locked. It also had a P1870 which is a trans slippage code. And it was current, plus everything else. K, let's see about wiping out the PWM function on this thing. So I drop the trans pan on this 248,000 mile machine that I assume has never seen a trans flush and find this, even after slippage.
It's dark, it's oxidized, but it's not burned, there's no mud in the pan, and there is nothing on that magnet. I think it's gonna survive. But I yoinked the TCC PWM valve, came out kinda hard, and looks nothing like the delete valve I had in my 1500 pre-4L80 swap. Purple dealie came out of this truck, the smaller diameter setup came from the valve body of my stuff.
I pulled this thing apart knowing I had a delete valve on hand, now I'm feeling kinda stuck, but I'm told if I keep the valve from stroking it becomes a PWM delete. I really wonder if it isn't that already, the truck shifted out and locked up like a dreamboat, it just didn't hold under load. I have to get this right one and done if nothing else for my own personal pride, but I feel it unlikely that the TCC itself is wasted.
After throwing in the towel earlier today I hung out with EJ while he sold off some 6.0 and 7.3 stuff from trucks he parted out. Then we went to see his buddy that owns jersey diesel performance and drop him off a trans and transfer case from a 6.0 truck. I got to talk to him a bit he was working on one of his Diesel drage race trucks so he wasn't doing business stuff and was a totally different person then I've talked to in the past. He gave me some pointers and some of the tiny o rings that go on the return lines. So with that EJ Shane and I went back to my shop. We had to cut apart the injector return lines to get them off because all the clips were breaking and with the truck together there's really no room to work. We also brought EJ's top side creeper. That made things a lot easier on my back. I'm still in screaming pain but not as bad as earlier. I think 3 injector returns were leaking but we only had to do 2 o rings. Then we put enough together to test fire it and called it good. I've got to go early tomorrow morning and put it all back together again while EJ is at New Egypt swap meet because when he gets back he wants his top side creeper to do a 7.3 turbo. It's after 12 now and I just got home I badly need a shower and I can barely walk because of my back and shoulders. I'd say tomorrow morning is going to come up fast on me but technically it's already here so I'm going to crawl into the shower now
But progress is progress. That list is getting a lot shorter, soon there won't be much to do on this thing but general maintenance
Just wrapped up doing more joesregalproject things.
Found this, it was only up for sale for 10 minutes, and bought it. Guy even delivered it to the house.
$130 all in and done. It needs one bearing replaced that got noisy on the main deck pulley, the bolt, pulley, and top bearing were unhurt. That gets it 100% functional.
Main driveshaft has new couplers a few months ago, blades 4 'cuts' ago. Overall just above 700hrs on the machine. Still has life left at that point, and, I've certainly got other engines around now too.
According to PO the choke cable is there, hooked up, just doesn't do anything so he gives it a spurt of starter fluid to fire up cold. Saw him do it. We killed the engine and I tried it, it works.
So that's more of a when I get to it issue I'll play with. Otherwise it is functional as it is. And pop that bearing on to be good to go.
I wonder if anyone plays around and goes bigger than 46" deck on these? Also, heard there's a rear tiller attachment that fits but is somewhat hard to find. Be nice to pick one of those up and maybe a front blade to scrape some dirt around the yard to level things.
Found this, it was only up for sale for 10 minutes, and bought it. Guy even delivered it to the house.
$130 all in and done. It needs one bearing replaced that got noisy on the main deck pulley, the bolt, pulley, and top bearing were unhurt. That gets it 100% functional.
Main driveshaft has new couplers a few months ago, blades 4 'cuts' ago. Overall just above 700hrs on the machine. Still has life left at that point, and, I've certainly got other engines around now too.
According to PO the choke cable is there, hooked up, just doesn't do anything so he gives it a spurt of starter fluid to fire up cold. Saw him do it. We killed the engine and I tried it, it works.
So that's more of a when I get to it issue I'll play with. Otherwise it is functional as it is. And pop that bearing on to be good to go.
I wonder if anyone plays around and goes bigger than 46" deck on these? Also, heard there's a rear tiller attachment that fits but is somewhat hard to find. Be nice to pick one of those up and maybe a front blade to scrape some dirt around the yard to level things.
Nice grab. Those are really solid machines. Shaft driven. That is 3 times the machine that those Troy Bilts are. People cry about MTD Cub Cadets not being the same quality as the IH Cubs but those early 2000/3000 series were really built to last. The bearing is a standard size tapered roller bearing, easy to find. Most of the ones I've taken apart used Timken as OEM.
There is a tiller attachment and I think there are 48 and 54 inch decks but don't quote me on that. Personally I like the smaller decks because they are more maneuverable but it really depends on what you are mowing.
This ill agree with hands down. Right now the 2155 is parked next to the ltx 1050. Everything about it is thicker, wider, heavier. I still wish it had been the gear driven version but for the price I couldn't have been happier.
Even had a new battery because the date sticker said 5/22
I did some looking and there's a kit on Amazon with 2 bearings, 2 heat treated washers, 2 c-clips, and a t304 sleeve for inside the pulley. I'm thinking of buying that, $28 and here by the 31st. Then there's no wondering if another piece will be failing.
The big difference I'm reading is that the 2155 is kinda a hybrid - uses belts from engine to deck instead of a shaft, but, shaft from engine to rear end instead of the belts the lighter duty things do.
There's not many obstacles in this yard, and this fall the plan is to get it FLAT. they basically leveled the ground when they build the subdivision 30 years ago, but, did it by trucking in massive amounts of fill. That means over the years there's been settling and on a neglected place like this, plenty of dips you bottom out if you put a tire in. I'd like to eliminate that, get some seeding done where there's bare spots, so on so forth. Lots less work to get a rough level with a blade before using a roller than shoveling by hand.
The tractor data pages didn't list any alternate decks as originally offered, but, that doesn't mean one from something else wouldn't fit. If I could jump from 46 to 54 if be happy enough. Still, the factory 46 is bigger than the 42 I've been running.
But the hunt for implements, now that's gonna have to be paramount. If be really nice to get a tiller on there too.
But, like you said. Addictive. And I'll keep on hunting for what seem like bargains.
- Status
Similar threads
