200-4R build it's starting Complete

[mr evil]

Just a thanks for the detailed thread with pics and showing your expensive tool workarounds. I know it takes time to post this stuff up, much appreciated. I'm confident this build will be successful!

 

[V8 Rumble]

Just a thanks for the detailed thread with pics and showing your expensive tool workarounds. I know it takes time to post this stuff up, much appreciated. I'm confident this build will be successful!

Thank you mr.evil.

I also bought some bushing drivers as well to do the bushings.

 

[V8 Rumble]

I assembled the pump. I used the stock seven vane pump with a teflon bushing and trans go 700pkh hardened pump rings with stiffer spring. I installed it with the stock inner spring as well.



Note the two wear marks on the pump vanes. If reusing your vanes make sure the wear marks face the pump rings.





I got a 7"and and a 3 or 4 inch clamp and tied them together then and used them to align the 2 pump halves. If you but the alignment clamp they are about $100. I paid $4 for the 2 clamps








Put it in a bag until I install it.

 

[V8 Rumble]

I am at the point where I have everything except for the tc. I will be going lock up after originally thinking non lock up. I want to keep the rpm lower and trans cooler.

I picked up a new tv cable, corrector bracket and cable bracket for my billet throttle bracket.

I also ordered a machined 4th clutch piston and third clutch friction from ck performance.

Some pics



Machined 4th clutch piston on right and stock in left.

 

[V8 Rumble]

My engine stand/transmission stand. Going to start building the internals today.

 

[V8 Rumble]

So I made some progress and will make more today. I had to order thicker steels .100" for my direct drum since I was at .090 and should be about .060. The rule is about .008 to .010 per friction.

I assembled the forward drum and installed the low reverse assembly and clutches.

Make sure to put your Frictions and steels first. Starting with a steel then a friction and alternating each until you end with a steel you will have 7 clutch steels and 6 Frictions. then add a 4 tang steel on top of the friction steel and the flimsy retainer to complete that section. I missed to take a couple of pics of this step.





Then you'll need to support the trail shaft. I used a old yolk I had. You'll need a second hand here if you do it this way or at least very helpful to have one. You can make a tool or buy one for this but it wasn't critical for me. This will help lower and raise the li reverse gear when assembling up to the sun gear.



After all your clutches are done install the low reverse gear





Then the lo/reverse clutch. Pay close attention to the orientation of home in the lo/reverse clutch it must go to the bottom of the trans (valve body side ) you will see the feed hole to line up.

Lo/reverse clutch hole



Bottom where hole lines up


I used to pieces I turned into L hooks and a friend to lower the lo/reverse clutch not easy but it worked. The lo/reverse tool is expensive but I can see why it would be the most useful tool in this build.

Here it is installed. Be sure to put in the retainer one you get it in.





The lo/reverse oil seal to the left of the 3. Put this on after the low reverse clutch is in. You can use compressed air activate the clutches.
I will have more later on. Feel free to ask questions I'll answer the best I can.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[ssn696]

When I look at the reverse pressure feed picture, it's amazing to me that transmission companies can say 'Handles X hundred horsepower, they can still rely on a sand cast aluminum case with just some touch-up machining to locate the planetaries and sprags.

 

[Longroof79]

Great thread, Joe.
Very informative.
Everything looks super sanitary. too...keep up the great work!

 

[V8 Rumble]

Thanks guys. All the internals are done I just have to organize the pics and details. All that's left are the valve body and servo and I'm ready to go and the tc of course.

 

[rumpfox]

So I made some progress and will make more today. I had to order thicker steels .100" for my direct drum since I was at .090 and should be about .060. The rule is about .008 to .010 per friction.

I assembled the forward drum and installed the low reverse assembly and clutches.

Make sure to put your Frictions and steels first. Starting with a steel then a friction and alternating each until you end with a steel you will have 7 clutch steels and 6 Frictions. then add a 4 tang steel on top of the friction steel and the flimsy retainer to complete that section. I missed to take a couple of pics of this step.

now is the time to put the plug seal in for th



Then you'll need to support the trail shaft. I used a old yolk I had. You'll need a second hand here if you do it this way or at least very helpful to have one. You can make a tool or buy one for this but it wasn't critical for me. This will help lower and raise the li reverse gear when assembling up to the sun gear.



After all your clutches are done install the low reverse gear





Then the lo/reverse clutch. Pay close attention to the orientation of home in the lo/reverse clutch it must go to the bottom of the trans (valve body side ) you will see the feed hole to line up.

Lo/reverse clutch hole



Bottom where hole lines up


I used to pieces I turned into L hooks and a friend to lower the lo/reverse clutch not easy but it worked. The lo/reverse tool is expensive but I can see why it would be the most useful tool in this build.

Here it is installed. Be sure to put in the retainer one you get it in.



I will have more later on. Feel free to ask questions I'll answer the best I can.

Thanks,

Joe

So I made some progress and will make more today. I had to order thicker steels .100" for my direct drum since I was at .090 and should be about .060. The rule is about .008 to .010 per friction.

I assembled the forward drum and installed the low reverse assembly and clutches.

Make sure to put your Frictions and steels first. Starting with a steel then a friction and alternating each until you end with a steel you will have 7 clutch steels and 6 Frictions. then add a 4 tang steel on top of the friction steel and the flimsy retainer to complete that section. I missed to take a couple of pics of this step.





Then you'll need to support the trail shaft. I used a old yolk I had. You'll need a second hand here if you do it this way or at least very helpful to have one. You can make a tool or buy one for this but it wasn't critical for me. This will help lower and raise the li reverse gear when assembling up to the sun gear.



After all your clutches are done install the low reverse gear





Then the lo/reverse clutch. Pay close attention to the orientation of home in the lo/reverse clutch it must go to the bottom of the trans (valve body side ) you will see the feed hole to line up.

Lo/reverse clutch hole



Bottom where hole lines up


I used to pieces I turned into L hooks and a friend to lower the lo/reverse clutch not easy but it worked. The lo/reverse tool is expensive but I can see why it would be the most useful tool in this build.

Here it is installed. Be sure to put in the retainer one you get it in.


now is the time to put the plug seal in the case to feed this curcit in case you make a boo boo it's easy to get back out without taking the whole trannie back apart.
I will have more later on. Feel free to ask questions I'll answer the best I can.

Thanks,

Joe