Help please! My 1982 Malibu Classic wagon suddenly runs terribly

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I wonder if the float is sticking in the carb. Has the carb ever been apart? Remove your air cleaner lid and fire it up and let it run. When it tries to stall, look into the top of the carb and see if its dumping a lot of fuel down it. You can grab the linkage and rev it up just a little to see if its squirting fuel. You might also try tapping on the front top of the carb while its stumbling and see if it stops stumbling. Don't whack the hell out of it but a few good taps with a wrench or small hammer will work. If it stops stumbling after hitting it, the float/needle is sticking.
 
It is squirting fuel. Seems to act up mostly on hills. I have to give it a pump for it to restart after it dies out others it will just crank and crank.
 
It is squirting fuel. Seems to act up mostly on hills. I have to give it a pump for it to restart after it dies out others it will just crank and crank.

The engine does have a slight 'surge' at idle sometimes, so that would be hinting that it's staving for fuel?
 
Went out in the negative Temps just a while ago. I Couldn't get it to stall out how it was, got it to stumble a bit though. When it stumbled, tapping on the carb did not seem to do anything. I am far from a carburetor pro, but when it stumbled, it did not appear it was overflowing anywhere. The fuel level inside the carb appeared to stay reasonably stable. It is squirting fuel.

I did tighten the throttle "stop" screw a bit (less than 1/4 turn) to bump up the idle very slightly. It seemed to like that, however I could still hear a slight surge. I Didn't mess with the mixture screws.
 
What should I expect for a healthy vacuum reading? I will see if my shop teacher can help me hook a gauge up to it soon as we are learning about vacuum anyway. Also I'll see if he can break the fuel filter nut loose.
 
What should I expect for a healthy vacuum reading? I will see if my shop teacher can help me hook a gauge up to it soon as we are learning about vacuum anyway. Also I'll see if he can break the fuel filter nut loose.
 
If it's still the original carb and not rebuilt, it is possible that the 2 computer controlled components are dying. The computer controls the mixture, and there is also a throttle position sensor in it. Either of these can cause problems if not operating correctly.

Does the car have a functioning check engine lamp?

My last Bonneville wagon ran worse and worse...discovered the previous owner had removed the bulb from the CEL, car had been throwing codes for BOTH the TPS and mixture control solenoid. Reman carb made it run like new again....but it had already started killing the cat converter due to all the fuel it was dumping into the exhaust.

Recently acquired 81 wagon had a non-computer carb on it...would not idle, hard to start, took forever to warm up as the choke was not connected. I replaced it with the correct CCC carb, runs great, idles like designed, The computer carbs get a bad reputation (like many things people don't take the time to learn about), but when correctly operating, they work very well, and are calibrated for the engine. If you make a lot of changes like headers, intake, gearing, then changing to a different setup will be advantageous, but for a stocker, there's not really anything wrong with the OE setup when working properly.
 
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Thanks, is there any way to test the computers? I assume if they're bad the carburetor needs replacing?
 
Thanks, is there any way to test the computers? I assume if they're bad the carburetor needs replacing?
I'd be more inclined to believe the carb needs a rebuild or there is a bad connection than the computer is "dying" as they are fairly robust generally unless it somehow got wet. As Ribbedroof said, a correctly rebuilt computer controlled carb can solve many issues. Rebuild kits are cheap and there are several guides and books. I think its an interesting learning experience and demystifies carburetor operation which may help in tuning later on.
 
To clarify, I was saying either or both the TPS or MCS were potentially dying/dead players, not the actual ECM computer

Does the car have a working check engine light? If it does, you can retrieve codes from the ECM with it. If not, you should make it work (commonly burnt out or removed bulb), and check for codes. This should either confirm or eliminate the 2 electronic components in the carb as the culprit.
 
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