The LS engines do have a few downsides, the aluminum blocks use thin cylinder sleeves that are cast in and can only be bored out by .010. The cast iron blocks can be bored out more. The LS engines have poorer oil control and worse windage, partly due to greater internal leakage and the deep skirt block. To tune a LS engine requires software that starts at $600. They also have bad crankcase breathing.
You should be fine. One of the first things I'd do though is get some bracing behind the back seat (google GNX rear seat bracing to get an idea if you don't know). Box the rear control arms or get tubular ones if you haven't, replace as many bushings as you can. There are complete bushing kits for these cars, body bushings, suspension, motor mounts, etc. If you can box the frame, do it. But for the most part, 400hp with just new bushings and at least that seat brace will go a long way.
Gen 1 SBC only making 350 hp isn't true. Plenty of Vortec headed SBC making 400 or better with a cam swap. The frame and body in a g body are a greater limit on power than most engine blocks, g bodies are not built to take more than 400 HP without starting to deforming, distorting, and breaking.
I deal with carb vehicles all the time, and Qjets are one of the best carbs ever made. The E4me Qjets are the only carbs with variable air fuel mixtures and run less rich.
True. But as soon as you cross the approximate 350hp you start to sacrifice stuff the further you go. Unless you spend big bucks on aftermarket roller cam heads and sequential efi with a crank trigger. And then you'd be better of woth a cheaper lighter better idling more fuel efficient stock 6 bolt mains LS engine that wont break a sweat to curb stomp the gen 1 sbc..
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