Old school engines vs ls swap debate!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
The LS engines do have a few downsides, the aluminum blocks use thin cylinder sleeves that are cast in and can only be bored out by .010. The cast iron blocks can be bored out more. The LS engines have poorer oil control and worse windage, partly due to greater internal leakage and the deep skirt block. To tune a LS engine requires software that starts at $600. They also have bad crankcase breathing.
 
The nice thing is most of those things are easily solvable. I personally consider the ls engine itself a "throw away" engine. If mine blows up beyond a minor repair, toss it and get another junk yard engine to drop in its place. I've seen guys on ls1tech melt pistons, pull pistons out of another motor and just slap them back in and go racing again. I've had a 400hp sbc, but I went for a ride in a friends car that was sporting a single turbo ls engine, and my jaw hit the floor.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Garrett1982
The LS engines do have a few downsides, the aluminum blocks use thin cylinder sleeves that are cast in and can only be bored out by .010. The cast iron blocks can be bored out more. The LS engines have poorer oil control and worse windage, partly due to greater internal leakage and the deep skirt block. To tune a LS engine requires software that starts at $600. They also have bad crankcase breathing.

You really believe all of this nonsense don't you? All I see you do is spout off ignorant internet factoid after factoid adding to the horrible misconceptions and misinformation out there. You are like that Iraqi Information Minister back in '03 baffling us with BS - word after word.

Please ignore this man.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: pontiacgp
This is going to turn into an interesting debate. I like both. I've learned enough with the LS stuff to get a little dangerous but it will come and go once the next big thing comes out eventually.
 
You should be fine. One of the first things I'd do though is get some bracing behind the back seat (google GNX rear seat bracing to get an idea if you don't know). Box the rear control arms or get tubular ones if you haven't, replace as many bushings as you can. There are complete bushing kits for these cars, body bushings, suspension, motor mounts, etc. If you can box the frame, do it. But for the most part, 400hp with just new bushings and at least that seat brace will go a long way.

Thanks a lot Sony.

Just ordered the rear seat brace from Mike Montes and am looking at UMI tubular rear LCAs.

Not sure why this wasn't on my radar but very glad it is now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MrSony
These threads on this topic get out of hand. The OP was looking for a debate because he was considering an engine for a summertime daily driver, not a racer. Guys are talking about problems you see in race cars with sustained high rpms and hard launches. A take out Ls with some minor mods would perform well and stay reliable in a dd. If you aren't racing, what is the difference if you have 350, 425, or 500hp? Bragging rights? I think most people get too hung up on numbers. I know how my truck feels with the stock power it makes and can imagine what it would be like to have that engine in a 2000 lb lighter car. Its crazy to think about.
Ultimately everyone has different goals, mechanical aptitudes, budgets, timelines, scenarios, have access to this or that, etc. It comes around and they decide what works for them.
 
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: Boy1duh and 84_SS
True. But as soon as you cross the approximate 350hp you start to sacrifice stuff the further you go. Unless you spend big bucks on aftermarket roller cam heads and sequential efi with a crank trigger. And then you'd be better of woth a cheaper lighter better idling more fuel efficient stock 6 bolt mains LS engine that wont break a sweat to curb stomp the gen 1 sbc..



Gen 1 SBC only making 350 hp isn't true. Plenty of Vortec headed SBC making 400 or better with a cam swap. The frame and body in a g body are a greater limit on power than most engine blocks, g bodies are not built to take more than 400 HP without starting to deforming, distorting, and breaking.

I deal with carb vehicles all the time, and Qjets are one of the best carbs ever made. The E4me Qjets are the only carbs with variable air fuel mixtures and run less rich.
 
True. But as soon as you cross the approximate 350hp you start to sacrifice stuff the further you go. Unless you spend big bucks on aftermarket roller cam heads and sequential efi with a crank trigger. And then you'd be better of woth a cheaper lighter better idling more fuel efficient stock 6 bolt mains LS engine that wont break a sweat to curb stomp the gen 1 sbc..

I'm a good deal north of 350HP on my 383SBC... What stuff do you refer to as sacrificed?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor